Today was so calm and sunny that you could have easily imagined it was May rather than November. I noticed a stream of cars loaded with sea kayaks head for Reinigeadal late yesterday afternoon and this morning I caught sight of someone launching on the slipway. So after making a quick introduction I joined what turned out to be a party of paddlers from Stornoway Canoe Club for a glorious day paddling up Loch Seaforth and around Seaforth Island. Thanks folks. I’ll be back for more.
For me the highlight was landing at the abandoned house at Ceann Mhor (Kenmore) set on a headland that juts out into Loch Seaforth of the far Lewis shore .
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The 1841 census records John Mackenzie, a shepherd, his wife Flora and daughter Margaret living here with a young lodger John MacRae. By 1851, Roderick MacLean, a shepherd from Contin and his family were resident. The present structure is no humble dwelling though. It has cast iron fireplaces in each room, fine slates fixed with beautiful handmade nails and lots of lead flashing which is still lying around as well as cast iron guttering and evidence of drains.
Both Bill Lawson’s new book ‘Lewis – The East Coast’ and Michael Robson’s recent ‘The Great Forest of Lewis’ are noticeably vague on detail, but it looks too well put together to be any earlier than mid-Victorian to me. So it was probably built by the Mathesons as a gamekeeper’s cottage. Apparently other houses at Bhalamus and Mulhagery are of a similar design and date from the same period, suggesting whoever owned Pairc had a job lot done.
Fellow paddlers told me a man died in Stornoway a few years ago who was said to have been born here early in the 20th century and judging from the amount of timber still in place, it does not look to have been abandoned until much later in the century.
Yet something else to ask Kenny.
Fabulous day for a paddle!
I don’t know if this is of any assistance regarding the questions you pose?:
http://direcleit.blogspot.com/2010/04/hamlet-of-limera.html
Another piece, regarding the early presence of the OS in Lewis, may also be of interest:
http://direcleit.blogspot.com/2010/03/ordnance-survey-in-lewis.html
Peter
Second one I knew about Peter, but not so convinced that the first is about the same place as there is anotehr Ceannmhor in Pairc http://canmore.rcahms.gov.uk/en/site/134082/details/ceannmhor+lewis/
Whoops! – thank you for correcting me.
Have you read Angus Macleod’s article on ‘The Establishment of the Park’ (available online at http://www.angusmacleodarchive.org.uk/ )? If not, you may find it interesting.
Peter
This account and the photographs of the cottage at Kenmore give me much pleasure. Some five years ago I visited the Eishken Estate and met the former factor, Tommy MacRae, and his son, the current factor. I had a fascinating talk with Tommy about his life and work, discovering that he had been born in that cottage. I incorporated this information in an article that was published by Scottish Islands Explorer. One thing has led to another and now I own and edit the publication. John
Wow; that’s surreal. That may actually be the man they were talking about
The location of Ceannmore is shown on this map which I compiled of all the abandoned villages in Park.
http://maps.google.co.uk/maps/ms?msid=203000604745005126510.000485b2c84f355393273&msa=0